A Guide to La Boca, Buenos Aires

If you’ve seen any guidebook or brochure about Argentina, you have seen La Boca.

The colorful streets of this historic Buenos Aires barrio grace the cover of nearly every single piece of literature about the city.

It’s also the only area of Buenos Aires that can feel like a tourist trap.

This recreated for tourists vibe can really turn a lot of visitors off, especially those looking for authenticity.

Tango performers hit up tourists to pose for cheesy photos, restaurants charge high prices for average food, and the shops are filled with magnets, trinkets and fake jerseys.

But I love La Boca. It’s gritty. Buenos Aires was born here. There is a lot of history here if you know where to look.

I recommend embracing the cheese, enjoying the wealth of people watching here and digging below the surface. Visit the museums, go on a guided tour with a local.

Because La Boca IS Buenos Aires.

This post includes all the best things to do in La Boca, safety tips, and more from someone who has been countless time over nearly 17 years living in Buenos Aires.

Is La Boca Safe?

First, let’s tackle the biggest concern about visiting La Boca in Buenos Aires.

Is it safe to go to La Boca?

Yes, La Boca is safe.

But it is true that some of the southern neighborhoods are less safe than the rest of the city, particularly if you’re unfamiliar with Buenos Aires.

I recommend staying on the tourist paths. Visit during daylight hours and leave before sunset.

And don’t bring everything with you. Leave your passport, extra credit cards, and excess cash at your hotel. Feel free to use your phone and camera but don’t be flashy about it.

Note that this good general practice for travel in any new city.

Read more: Is Buenos Aires safe for tourists?

How to get to La Boca

• Uber: Since La Boca is on the far southern end of the city, I recommend taking a taxi or Uber.
• Hop-On-Hop-Off-Bus: A safe and easy option is the hop-on-hop-off bus. This bus is a great idea on your first day in the city. Use it to get an overview of Buenos Aires and as transport to harder to reach locations, like La Boca.
• Public transportation: If you feel confident with the Buenos Aires bus system, take the 152. The final stop leaves you at right at start of the Caminito. Read my guide to conquering public transportation in Buenos Aires for more.

The History of La Boca, Buenos Aires

To appreciate La Boca you must learn the history and I promise, it’s interesting!

La Boca is one of Buenos Aires’ 48 neighborhoods, located on the south side of the city.

The name Boca literally means mouth, and being the city’s main port that is exactly what this neighborhood was.

Buenos Aires is a melting pot of immigrants. La Boca welcomed them.

The largest group to immigrate here came from Genoa in Italy, shortly followed by groups from all over Europe, with the largest wave of immigration occurring at the start of the 20th century.

Coming from a port city themselves, these Italians felt right at home in La Boca.

Tenement housing was built with pieces of scrap metal and painted with leftover paint from the shipyard.

This is the reason for the rainbow palate of colors we see today.

La Republica de la Boca

In the 1880’s, after a labor conflict that resulted in a lengthy strike, a group of Genovese immigrants decided enough was enough.

They signed a declaration to the King of Italy declaring the independent Republic of La Boca.

They seceded from Argentina and flew the Genovese flag.

It was short-lived but it was deemed important enough for President Julio Argentino Roca to bring the army with him to personally remove the flag.

That was the end of the rebellion but the spirit of La Republica lived on.

The Yellow Fever, How it changed La Boca, & its Revival

The yellow fever outbreak during the 1870’s forever changed the landscape of Buenos Aires.

The affluent residents in southern neighborhoods like La Boca and San Telmo fled to the countryside (areas that are now Recoleta and Belgrano, for example).

Those left behind had no other choice but to remain.

This social divide between the north and the south is still evident today.

In the 1950’s there were multiple efforts to revive the neighborhood. Benito Quinquela Martín, a famous Argentine artist famed for his paintings of La Boca’s port scenes, led the effort.

In 1959, the Caminito was officially given the title of an open-air museum after a tango song of the same name (written by Juan de Dios Filiberto, a friend of Quinquela Martín).

In recent years La Boca has been slowly cleaning up, with the appearance of cultural centers, art galleries, and cafes.

Things to do in La Boca

La Boca can admittedly feel like a tourist trap. And if you’re not careful, it can easily become one.

Avoid the tourist trappings of cheap souvenirs and overpriced (and not great) empanadas.

If you do it right, La Boca can also be the most authentic place in the city.

There are great local restaurants, art museums, and incredible street art.

Here is how to get the most out of your visit to La Boca.

The Best Tours of La Boca

I always go on guided tours whenever possible if I want to learn the history and find local hole in the wall restaurants to eat like a local.

La Boca is one of those places that is best seen with a local guide.

And that is even more important since it’s not recommended to go off the beaten path here as a tourist. With a guide you can safely venture further afield.

THE BEST LA BOCA TOURS:

• Group walking tour of La Boca | This affordable tour is ideal and provides a complete La Boca experience. It covers the barrio’s rich cultural history, including tango, La Boca Juniors football stadium, and the colorful Caminito.
• Authentic History Tour of La Boca | This is a tour that dives deep into the history of La Boca, if you want to really learn about this city and go off the beaten path, this is the tour for you.
• Private Walking Tour of La Boca | It’s pricier but you avoid the large crowd of the previous tour and can personalize the experience.
• La Boca Street Art Tour | This is a bike tour of La Boca and nearby barrios Barracas and San Telmo focused on the area’s iconic street art.

Walk the Caminito & The Conventillos

The Caminito and the blocks surrounding it are a colorful feast for the eyes.

Wander the streets and fill your Instagram with all it has to offer.

Enter the traditional Conventillo homes that have been turned into shops and restaurants.

Listen to the tango music and watch the dancers perform (and remember to tip).

What are conventillos? These tenement houses were originally single-family homes.

When the wealthy fled the south during the yellow fever outbreak these mansions were occupied by multiple families.

Entire families would share one room, and the central patios served as communal areas to cook and wash.

Today these conventillos are home to tourist shops, which may feel fake and cheesy at first glance but if you look closely, you can see the scars of the past.

Go to a Game/the Museum at La Bombonera

A block or two from the Caminito you’ll see the imposing blue and yellow stadium, home to the Boca Juniors football team.

Legend has it that they selected their colors from a Swedish flag that was flying off a cargo ship in the port.

This is one of the top two teams in the city or arguably, the country.

Going to a game is a once in a lifetime experience.

It’s not possible to purchase tickets unless you’re a member of the futbol club but there are agencies you can go with. I like Homefans, which allows locals to create their own experiences and host visitors at homegames.

I’ve been to a few games with them and always feel safe.

Games & Stadium Tours:

• Go to a Boca game: Read all about my Boca Juniors experience with Homefans, and click here to book your tickets. Use my code SOLSALUTE to save 10%.
• Stadium tours: Seethe pitch and visit the museum in the stadium, click here for more information.
• Boca/River tour: For a complete futbol experience, this guided tour includes a private visit to both La Bombonera and River Plate’s stadium in Belgrano.

Read More: All about Futbol in Buenos Aires: Games, Museums & Tours

Get Cultural at the Best Museums in La Boca

Here are three great museums to discover in La Boca:

• Usina del Arte – Agustín R. Caffarena 1 – Usina del Arte is located in an area the city government is developing into the Arts District. Check the government website for current exhibits. The building itself is impressive in its own right.
• Fundación Proa – Av. Don Pedro de Mendoza 1929 – The Proa is located at the beginning of the Caminito, overlooking the water. The Proa is a contemporary art center with a cinema, auditorium, and modern art exhibits. The café on the terrace is worth a visit for the view alone.
• El Museo Benito Quinquela Martín – Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1843/35- This museum, facing the water and a statue of its namesake, is home to a large collection of Quinquela’s art. Quinquela is famous for his colorful depictions of La Boca. More on this museum and his history below…

Go to El Museo Benito Quinquela Martín

Benito Quinquela Martín is one of the biggest names of La Boca. He was an orphan, adopted at the age of 7.

He was a self-taught painter without formal training who became one of the country’s most renowned artists.

Quinquela is known as the painter of the port, as his work largely depicts scenes of the port you see here in La Boca.

Using the profits made from selling his works he was able to purchase property right here on the water of his beloved La Boca.

He donated the majority of the land to be used as a school, a theater, and a museum, retaining the upper floor for his residence and workshop.

All of this remains here today. Attend the free museum, but pay the small suggested donation. You’ll see school children running about and posters advertising shows at the theater.

This was all created as his thanks to a neighborhood that gave him so much.

The rainbow cobblestones lining the water in front of the museum were painted in his honor.

His living quarters is in tact, all painted in a rainbow of tones similar to what you see in the Caminito below.

Along with his art, I enjoyed seeing the large collection of figureheads from ships. It’s a really interesting museum, don’t skip it.

The Viejo Puente Transbordador

One of the most unique bridges of its kind, this old transporter bridge operated from 1914 until the 1960’s when the neighborhood fell into neglect.

It served as a connection to Isla Maciel (in Dock Sud) for years and even allowed the old tramway to cross the river in its hanging ferry.

Like other bridges of its kind, it was designed to be high enough to allow ships to pass under it when entering the port.

It is an iconic piece of the skyline in La Boca.

Admire the Street Art in La Boca

The area surrounding Usina del Arte (above) is blanketed in stunning murals as well as the streets surrounding the Caminito.

With the city developing the area into the Arts District, they’ve promoted some of the best street art in Buenos Aires here on its streets.

Explore the surrounding blocks as well as the underpass of the highway, which has been blanketed in murals.

This bike tour is all about the street art here and in neighboring barrios.

Go Behind the Scenes with Colón Fábrica 

The Teatro Colon is one of the world’s few theaters that can create props and costumes in its own workshops, located beneath the theater.

They store props from past shows right here in La Boca at Colón Fábrica.

Colon Fabrica is open daily (including feriados/holidays) from 10am to 6pm. They have guided tours available, click here to check exact times and book your visit in advance.

It only costs a couple extra dollars worth of pesos to go on the tour and it’s well worth it to learn about the theater, the sets, and the shows.

Where to eat in La Boca

It can be tempting to eat at the many restaurants you see lining the Caminito, especially when the waiters hound you with lunch offers.

You can get a better meal elsewhere but if you want to rest your feet here and watch the tango performers, order a coffee, beer or soda and enjoy the show.

One option is to combine your visit to La Boca with nearby San Telmo and have lunch there. San Telmo has a lot of great places to eat. I list my favorite spots in my San Telmo guide here.

For dining in La Boca, here are a couple of my favorites:

• El Gran Paraiso | This parilla is located just off the Caminito. Eat in the central patio of a traditional Conventillo home, tucked away from the madness of the Caminito itself. Like the rest of the area is it undeniably touristy, but it is very beautiful and the food is top quality. Sit down for the full menu or order a choripan sandwich from the window by the door and eat it on their deck with a view.
• Banchero | For a historic pizzeria, Banchero can’t be beat. Keep in mind this is Argentine style pizza (thick crust, low on sauce, heavy on the cheese). Banchero invented the flavor Fugazzetta (cheese and onion) and this is the original location. Read all about the best pizza in Buenos Aires, go to this location if you feel safe walking a few blocks off the beaten path or better yet, visit their downtown location on Av. Corrientes.

Map of La Boca, Buenos Aires

On the map below I’ve pinned everything I mention in this guide. I also highlighted the safest area to walk in yellow.

You’ll notice a few pins lie outside of the “safe zone.” Use your best judgement if you choose to walk here. If you’re at all nervous or feel like “I stick out here”, I recommend staying only on the Caminito.

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