All About Cerro Tronador & Pampa Linda, Bariloche

Pampa Linda is the main valley at the base of Cerro Tronador.

Tronador is the highest and most prominent peak in Nahuel Huapi National Park, at 3,554 metres (11,660 feet) above sea level.

The name Tronador, means “Thunderer” in Spanish. You can hear the thundering sound from its glaciers as you hike.

The small village of Pampa Linda is the launching point for some of the most spectacular treks in Argentina.

The trailheads are next to a hotel, campsites, and park ranger station.

All about Pampa Linda, Argentina

Tronador lies between two national parks on the border of Argentina and Chile.

This area has some of the most beautiful trekking routes with its own network of 3 refugios for overnights and multi-day trips, as well as the mountain village of Pampa Linda to explore on day hikes from. 

Important: The road to Tronador is one-way only at certain hours (confirm beforehand if going by your own vehicle). The tourist shuttle operates based on the road hours.

And if you don’t want to hike but want to see Cerro Tronador and its glaciers, this day excursion is one of the most popular day trips from Bariloche.

The first time I visited Pampa Linda was on this sightseeing tour from Bariloche.

This is a great way to see a lot in one full day, with highlights including Cerro Tronador, Ventisquero Negro, Pampa Linda, Mirador Isla Corazon, Playa Negra, and Lago Mascardi.

Additionally, you can opt for a longer tour that also features Cascada Los Alerces.

Day Hikes from Pampa Linda

Basing yourself in Pampa Linda versus going directly to a refugio makes it possible to do several of the hikes and visit nearby Ventisquero Negro (known as the black glacier).

We’ve stayed at Pampa Linda Hosteria a few times and gone from there as a base to explore on day hikes as a family and as a pre-night for long treks.

Additionally, Albergue Pampa Linda offers food and shared-room style dormis, and camping is available at Los Vuriloches. 

Saltillo de las Nalcas

Distance: 1.75 miles (roundtrip)
Time: 1 hour
Difficulty: Easy
Registration needed: No

The trailhead is roughly 400 meters from Hosteria Pampa Linda.

This light hike has a few wooden and metal bridge crossings (use extra caution if it’s raining as these can get slippery). 

Follow the well-marked pathway to the saltillo (small waterfall).

The waterfall comes over a rock formation called Cerro Biblioteca with a steady flow of water from 130 feet above.

Read More: A Complete Guide to Hiking in Bariloche

Mirador Glacier Castaño Overa

Distance: 8.75 miles (roundtrip)
Time: 5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Registration needed: Yes

The trail starts next to the Park Rangers Office in Pampa Linda.

This hike shares a mostly flat trail for the first hour, until a fork in the path, where you’ll turn left to the glacier and right heads to Refugio Otto Meiling.

The sign says Castaño Overa in 1 hour (I always thought these signs were amusing because they list time instead of distance, when we all have different paces). 

There is limited shade in the final section.

Standing beneath the thundering water crashing down from the viewpoint can make you feel the power of nature.

Tronador Refugios

Pampa Linda is the jumping off point for 3 unique refugios.

These can be done individually, combined as a complete or partial circuit, or included in multi-day routes such as Paso de Las Nubes and 5 Lagunas.

The diverse scenery possible in one trek here is truly extraordinary.

Refugio Laguna Ilon (Mirada del Doctor)

• Distance: 5 miles (Pampa Linda to Laguna Ilon), 2.5 miles (Laguna Ilon to Mirada del Doctor), distances one-way
• Time: 5 hours (to Laguna Ilon) and 1.5 hours (to Mirada del Doctor)
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Registration needed: Yes
• Season: Open year-round (for best conditions visit in Dec-Mar)
• Reservations: Required to reserve in advance on the Refugio Ilon website

Let’s start with Laguna Ilon, which lies on a sandy beach with Mount Tronador as the backdrop.

The refugio itself is completely distinct from the others, being in a series of domes.

One dome is designated for the dining and communal shelter area to relax. Another dome is a shared sleeping dormitory that holds 30 people. Additionally, there are 2-person and 4-person domes.

Also, this is one of the best refugios for camping – with spots right by the laguna. 

The trail begins next to the Park Rangers Office in Pampa Linda.

Roughly 300 meters into the hike, the trail will split and you’ll follow the signs to the right. There is a suspension bridge (puente colgante) across the Alerce River.

Soon the path begins to climb steadily with switchbacks and uphill trekking for the next 1.5 miles.

The second part of the hike is much calmer and rolls through the forest until the refugio. 

Plan on an additional 1.5 hours one-way to Mirada del Doctor. The hike goes along the lagoon and through the forest, before arriving at a significant rocky ledge with one of the most impressive panoramic views in Patagonia.

Note: Option to extend the trek by continuing via the traverse to Refugio Agostino Rocca

Refugio Agostino Rocca

• Distance: 8.75 miles (one way)
• Time: 6 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Registration needed: Yes
• Season: Open November-April (for best conditions visit in Dec-Mar)
• Reservations: Required to reserve overnight stays in advance by WhatsApp (contact link listed on the Refugio Rocca website). Camping NOT permitted.

Refugio Agostino Rocca opened in 2012, and has a spacious, new lodge atmosphere.

There is a large deck with a view of Lago Frias below, spacious dining and common area, and 10 dorm rooms (with 8 beds in each) with a total capacity for 80 guests.

The trail starts next to the Park Rangers Office in Pampa Linda.

The first 1.75 miles are flat until crossing the Castaño Overa bridge.

Similar to other hikes, the early part shares a trail that will split into different routes. Follow the well-marked signage that directs you to Refugio Agostino Rocca and Paso de Las Nubes.  

The path is mostly flat and often borders the river.

Around mile 6, elevation increases becoming a zigzag climb called a “caracol.” You’ll pass through ravines and arrive at a large marsh area, before the refugio comes into view. 

Overall this is the least challenging hike.

This was the first overnight we did as a family when my son was a toddler and I returned on several multi-days treks.

I would say it’s good for families, new hikers, and as a connector to other locations.

Note: From Rocca, you can return the way you came back to Pampa Linda. Or, connect to Refugio Otto Meiling via the Glacier Alerce crossing (mandatory with a guide) or return to Bariloche via Paso de las Nubes (advance purchase of boat fare required).

Refugio Otto Meiling

• Distance: 8.75 miles
• Time: 5-7 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Registration needed: Yes
• Season: Open November-May (varies by season, with Dec-March being best for weather conditions). 
• Reservations: Advance reservations through the Refugio Meiling website or at the Travel Light Turismo office in Bariloche

Refugio Otto Meiling opened in 1971, sitting along Mount Tronador between the Castaño Overa and the Alerce glaciers.

The hut has a dining area with large wooden tables, an upstairs dormitory with space for 60 people, and 2 bathrooms by the entrance. Outside there is ample space to relax with the best views of Tronador and the surrounding area. 

The trail starts next to the Park Rangers Office in Pampa Linda.

The first 1.5 miles are flat and easy until the Castaño Overa bridge. The trail from here is on a 4×4 road, but there are frequent shortcuts during the next 3.75 miles.

Don’t worry, you’re staying on trail, but saving energy and the shortcuts are far more interesting than the dirt track. They are marked by animal signs such as “carpintero gigante” that means giant woodpecker. 

You’ll depart the section of road and shortcuts, and see a sign that says “last water supply” where there’s a hose to fill up your bottles. 

Then begins a steep “caracol” section with switchbacks. At the end of the switchbacks, you’ll come to an open area called “La Almohadilla.” 

The final few miles are exposed as you come out of the trees. You can see and hear the glacier rumble below, as you continue steadily on the rocky trail.

The refugio will appear in the distance, which is always the best feeling to know you can kick your boots off and rest soon. 

Note: Mountaineering excursions to climb Tronador depart from Meiling. This refugio can be done on its own as an out-and-back from Pampa Linda, or continue on day 2 via the Glacier Alerce crossing (mandatory with a guide).

Pampa Linda Multi-Day traverses

A build-your-own adventure of sorts exists with multi-day treks connecting the network of refugios and mountain traverses, from the iconic “4 Refugios” to the “Paso de Las Nubes” that ends with a boat cruise return to Bariloche by boat.

Going with a certified guide is highly recommended for the traverses

5 Lagunas

• Distance: 25 miles
• Time: 5 days / 4 nights
• Difficulty: Strenuous / High
• Registration needed: Yes
• Reservations: Advance reservations for Refugio Laguna Negra (night 1) and Refugio Laguna Ilon (night 4)

This is a 5-day trek from Colonia Suiza, Bariloche to Pampa Linda, Cerro Tronador.

As the name suggests, this traverse highlights 5 lagunas along the way.

This covers an extraordinary part of Patagonia for hikers with a high experience level.

Day 1 is the trail from Colonia Suiza to Refugio Laguna Negra. Enjoy the cozy, warm shelter and amenities because the next few days are desolate and without services.

Day 2 goes from Refugio Laguna Negra to Laguna CAB, where you’ll set up camp for the night.

Day 3 travels from Laguna CAB to Laguna Cretón, your camp for the night.

Day 4 traverses from Laguna Cretón, passing Laguna Jujuy on the way, and ends at the final spot of Laguna Ilon.

On Day 5, return on the trail from Laguna Ilon to Pampa Linda.

Note: If you are extra ambitious and the 5 Lagunas makes you want more, you can continue the trek from Laguna Ilon with the traverse to Refugio Rocca and return to Bariloche via Paso de Las Nubes. I’ve crossed paths with people doing this and immediately felt humbled.

Around Tronador

• Distance: 25 miles
• Time: 4 days / 3 nights
• Difficulty: High
• Registration needed: Yes
• Reservations: Advance reservations for Refugio Otto Meiling, Refugio Agostino Rocca, and Refugio Laguna Ilon
• Mandatory with certified guide, for the Glacier Alerce crossing, between Meiling and Rocca

This is a circuit that encompasses each of the Tronador refugios in 4 days.

You’ll see Tronador in all its glory, from all angles.

Complete the route from Pampa Linda to Refugio Otto Meiling on day 1.

Day 2 involves crossing the Alerce Glacier to Refugio Rocca.

The longest hike is on day 3, with the traverse from Refugio Rocca to Refugio Laguna Ilon (with extension to Mirada del Doctor).

Spend the 3rd and final night relaxing at the beach of Laguna Ilon, before returning on day 4 to Pampa Linda.

Note: Similar to the other multi-days, you can adjust this to do part of the circuit. I’ve done different combinations, including: Ilon to Rocca and a Meiling to Rocca to Paso de Las Nubes trek as well.

Plan for a long, full day between Rocca and Ilon (you know you’re in for it when the sign estimate says, “9 hours.” Leave early, bring plenty of water, and thank me when you arrive in time for dinner.

Paso de Las Nubes

• Distance: 7.5 miles (+ pre-day trek to arrive to Refugio Agostino Rocca)
• Time: 5-6 hours
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Registration needed: Yes
• Reservations: Advance reservations for the return boat from Lago Frias/Puerto Blest

This trek departs from Refugio Agostino Rocca, that you’ll arrive at the day before.

Rocca is accessed from a main trail from Pampa Linda, the traverse from Laguna Ilon, or from the Alerce Glacier crossing from Refugio Otto Meiling (depending on your route). 

For the purpose of this description, congrats on already making it to Rocca.

You’re on the large wooden deck looking out to your next destination – Lago Frias. It looks deceivingly close, but it’s actually 7.5 miles away through toe-jamming ups and downs with enough step ups and logs to rival the toughest Stairmaster.

This is also one of the most unique hikes in Patagonia. Who doesn’t love a hike that ends with a boat crossing?

Descend from Rocca through a Valdivian rainforest, along milky, turquoise-colored Rio Frias, until catching your rides home – a boat across glacially-fed, emerald green Lago Frias and a cruise from Puerto Blest across Lake Nahuel Huapi.

Note: Arrange to end your trek with a night at Hotel Puerto Blest, in one of the most beautiful and remote settings, before taking the boat back to Bariloche.

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