All about the San Telmo Market: Buenos Aires’ Sunday Street Fair

Buenos Aires is famous for its many open air weekend markets, but of them all, the San Telmo market is by far the most popular.

For my first year of living in Buenos Aires, I lived in the heart of San Telmo one block from Plaza Dorrego.

Every single Sunday I had the pleasure (or a hungover person’s nightmare) of having the San Telmo street fair right on my doorstep.

I would wander the market, eat choripan for lunch and listen to the candome drum lines at sunset every week. Even today, years later, I still love to visit.

This post will give you everything you need to know to explore San Telmo’s Sunday street fair.

The San Telmo Market, Buenos Aires

First, I want to clarify that what you may refer to as the “San Telmo Market” is really called “La Feria de San Telmo” and in English would be better translated to street fair.

It spans more than 10 blocks every Sunday afternoon, selling knick-knacks, handicrafts and antiques. There are street performers, street food and massive crowds.

It’s a must-see in Buenos Aires and a reason to try to time your Buenos Aires itinerary for a weekend.

By contrast, the Mercado de San Telmo is a covered indoor market that takes up an entire city block on the corner of Defensa and Carlos Calvo streets. It retains its original structure and after a 2022 restoration it is in impeccable condition.

The vendors, however, have undergone a major rehaul in recent years with most original produce vendors and grocers giving way to restaurants that attract a more touristy clientele.

Luckily, some vendors and antique stalls do remain, so I beg of you, please shop with them so they can stay where they are and we can hold on to some of this markets original charm.

Visit the La Feria de San Telmo

• The San Telmo Market takes place every Sunday afternoon
• The market runs the length of Defensa Street, beginning in Plaza de Mayo
• Unfortunately, it isn’t rain or shine, if it’s raining the vendors won’t set up
• Bring cash or download WanderWallet, some vendors will accept card but not all. Paying by MercadoPago (a local app) is common, to use that option read this post
• Wear comfortable shoes. You’ll be walking all day on cobblestone. You’ll also be walking slowly which takes its toll on your back and legs.

When is the San Telmo Street Fair?

The market takes place every Sunday, converting the cobblestones of Calle Defensa into a treasure hunter’s dream.

The hours are officially from 10 am to 5 pm.

However, Buenos Aires isn’t exactly geared towards the early riser. You won’t find much activity until at least lunch.

And even though vendors began dismantling their stands by around 5, the action continues well past sunset with candombe drum troupes marching down the street and tango dancers taking over Plaza Dorrego after dark.

If you have the time in your itinerary (more than 3 days in Buenos Aires), I recommend seeing San Telmo on both a Sunday and a weekday to see both sides of this neighborhood.

Read More | The 8 Best Markets in Buenos Aires

How to get to the San Telmo Market?

The Sunday San Telmo Market runs the length of Defensa street starting in Plaza de Mayo.

You can take the Subte Line D to the Catedral Station to get to Plaza de Mayo and start walking the length of the market from there.

If you want to go straight to the heart of San Telmo or the indoor Mercado de San Telmo take an Uber or taxi to Plaza Dorrego.

San Telmo Market: Shopping & Street Performers

The entirety of the street fair runs around 12 blocks, starting at the start of Defensa Street (right at Plaza de Mayo) and going until Avenida San Juan. That’s a lot of shopping.

The vendors closer to Plaza de Mayo are a bit uninspiring but they quickly improve. You’ll see some random made in China knick knacks but it only takes a few blocks before you find painters selling their work, vintage leather bags, and handicrafts.

The antiques that make the market famous are set up in Plaza Dorrego. They will begin to dismantle at around 5 so don’t wait til the end of the day to go.

Street performers are also a feria staple, namely tango performers but you’ll also see musicians, human statues (the man with “the wind” blowing his clothes back is a classic), and artists painting on massive canvases.

Have some cash ready to toss into their hat as a tip (especially if you photograph or film them).

There is a dance floor at the back of Plaza Dorrego with tango performers later in the afternoon. After the antique vendors dismantle their stands this floor becomes a milonga and neighbors come to dance tango. It’s a great way to see authentic tango.

If you also want to see a professional show, book the show at El Viejo Almacen, a historic venue right here in San Telmo. If that start time is too late, book The Secret Tango Society in Palermo Hollywood.

San Telmo Market: Restaurants & Street Food

My favorite steaks and empanadas are all right here in San Telmo, so come hungry.

I know that you may be hoping for street food at a market like this, but the truth is Argentina doesn’t have a real big street food culture. The only thing street food item here is choripan, lomitos (steak sandwiches), and bondiola (pork sandwiches) and you will find that in spades here throughout the street fair.

Vendors convert parking lots into parrillas and grill steak and chorizo for sandwiches every Sunday. Another option, that I prefer, is going to Desnivel. This is my favorite parrilla in San Telmo. If you only want a Choripan or sandwich they offer them to go on Sundays. But the dining room is open if you want to order from the full menu.

You’ll also see a lot of street carts selling fresh squeezed orange juice and caramelized peanuts called garrapiñada (photo above). Get both.

For the best empanadas in the entire city, go to the small hole in the wall El Gauchito and order the fried meat. Give the owner Beto, from La Rioja, a beso from me.

You’ll be tempted to eat in the Mercado de San Telmo, and the food IS good but you can have a better, more affordable, and more relaxing experience elsewhere.

For a coffee, picada (charcuterie board), or beer or vermouth or wine (the menu has it all), go a couple blocks from the market to El Federal, one of the city’s oldest Bare Notables.

For even more options read my complete San Telmo guide here and get my Buenos Aires city map. I’ve pinned all of my favorite places to eat (and more) to that map, including 10 days of self guided walks and itineraries for Buenos Aires.

Wander the Side Streets

Something happens to tourists in a market that requires them to walk at a glacial pace.

When you need a breath of fresh air or your your hips and knees are begging for a quicker pace, just step just one block off of Defensa to either side to Balcarce or Bolivar streets.

San Telmo is one of my favorite places in Buenos Aires and it isn’t because of it’s weekly antique and craft market.

Look for the grungy Buenos Aires street art, the historical but decaying old buildings, and a bit of personal space before diving back into the market.

Keep reading about Buenos Aires

Read these related posts to continue planning your trip.

• Things to do in San Telmo, Buenos Aires: Everything else to do in San Telmo besides the Sunday feria.
• A Guide to La Boca: Visit La Boca on the same day as San Telmo for a complete day
• The 8 Best Buenos Aires Markets: More outdoor markets in Buenos Aires
• The Best Argentina Souvenirs: What to shop for in the San Telmo market
• The Best Steakhouses in Buenos Aires
• Money in Argentina: Currency Exchange, the Blue Dollar, and Getting the Best Rate