Argentina Lake District: Road Trip from San Martin de los Andes to Villa La Angostura

Argentina’s 7 Lakes Route is one of the most popular day trips from Bariloche, but what if I told you it deserves more than that?

That YOU deserve more than that?

For starters, the 7 Lakes Route doesn’t begin in Bariloche. It begins 90 minutes north in Villa La Angostura and ends in San Martin de los Andes.

These two mountain villages are much smaller than big sister Bariloche.

Bariloche has grown into a big city with all the trappings that come with that – traffic, more crowds, and security issues. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t like Bariloche, I do.

But there is just something about VLA and SMA, these small towns are cozier, they’re more inviting. They retain their original alpine village charm.

And their proximity to the 7 Lakes Route allows you to really get into it, you have time for hikes or lazy hours long picnics by one of the more tucked away lakes.

Follow the road trip itinerary in this article to give Argentina’s lake district the time and attention it deserves.

Argentina’s Lake District Road Trip: Villa La Angostura & San Martin de los Andes

I’ve been to Northern Patagonia more times than I can count. In 2023, we spent the entire winter in Bariloche and Villa La Angostura.

Over the past 16 years I’ve come as a single 20-something backpacker, as a couple, and with kids.

I love this part of the country and at this point, it feels like a home away from home.

Follow my advice and turn your 7 lakes day trip into a week long road trip.

I promise that you won’t regret it.

Road Trip Logistics: Rental Cars & Flights

First, where is the lake district? When I’m talking about the lake district I am referring to Bariloche, Villa La Angostura, San Martin de los Andes and all of the smaller villages in between.

Now let’s get down to brass tacks.

How do you plan this trip?

There are two airports:

• Bariloche (BRC) is home to the largest airport with a lot more options for both flights and car rentals.
• San Martin de los Andes has a smaller airport, airport code CPC. There are less flight options per day but they can still be affordable if you book in advance or in lower season.

So which one should you fly into?

This will depend on your rental car budget and itinerary.

Logistically, it’s makes a lot more sense to start your road trip in San Martin de los Andes and drive south to fly out of Bariloche.

But car rental agencies do charge a hefty fee for dropping off the car in a different city. On our recent trip (October 2025) that fee was around $200 US.

Alternatively, you can fly in and out of Bariloche. Allowing you to avoid that extra drop off fee. Rental cars are also generally cheaper in Bariloche and you have more options for flights.

Yes, you’d have backtrack at some point to make this a round trip itinerary but the views are stunning. There are worse problems to have.

Do your research and compare flights and compare rental car prices before getting too committed to a route or itinerary.

How long do you need for this Patagonia road trip?

I suggest 6-10 days. Allow three days in San Martin de los Andes, 3 in Villa La Angostura, and if you have more time, you can head into Bariloche.

If you have less time, I’d pick one town and see that area well. In that case, spend at least 3 days in San Martin de los Andes or Villa La Angostura.

But know that you’ll always wish you had more time once you’re down here. If you can give yourself that time, you won’t regret it.

More Road Trip Resources

For more information on these destinations, like where to stay and eat and even more things to do, read these guides:

• San Martin de los Andes Guide
• Villa La Angostura Guide
• The 7 Lakes Route in Argentina
• Things to do in Bariloche: A Complete Travel Guide
• Where to stay in Bariloche
• The Best Hikes in Bariloche – A Local’s Hiking Guide
• 🗺 My Patagonia Map & Guide: I have a very detailed map on the Rexby app with every hidden gem, restaurant, souvenir shop and hike pinned. Each pin has a detailed description on everything you need to know to visit. The guide also has itineraries for every destination. It is the perfect compliment for this blog.

Our Road Trip: San Martin de los Andes to Bariloche

What follows is a near truthful re-telling of the route we followed on our most recent trip.

I say nearly truthful because I am tweaking it just a bit.

Since we’ve been many times we decided to indulge in a couple of lazy days to disconnect. But I’m now allowing you that same luxury here! If this is your first (and possibly only) time here, then get out of bed and get out there!

I pull activities from past trips to really round out this itinerary to fill in for our lazy days.

Bariloche to San Martin de los Andes

Of course, since we were starting our trip in San Martin de los Andes I would have preferred to just fly directly to San Martin de los Andes (referred to as SMA from now on for our own sanity), but the cost was just too high for my budget.

The car rental was more expensive to start off with and then on top of that they were charging 200 dollars to return it in Bariloche.

We compared rental car fees and flights and decided that, for us anyway, it made more sense to fly into Bariloche.

We landed at around 1 pm, picked up our rental car and immediately hit Ruta 40 north to SMA.

Flying in and out of Bariloche meant that we would be driving the 7 Lakes Route twice. If you’re worried about the repetitiveness of the view, don’t. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve driven this route and I’m never bored by it.

There is always another lake or beach to try out, and a few favorites I never tire of re-visiting.

Since we got a late start we only stopped twice along the way – at Playa Guardaparque and at Lago Faulkner – for my kids to stretch their legs and play.

For more information on the drive read my guide to the 7 Lakes Route.

3 days in San Martin de los Andes

San Martin de los Andes is at the northern end of the 7 Lakes Route. It’s a small city with a grid layout but still feels very much like a small town.

The town hugs the shores of Lago Lacar and there are plenty of dining options, hikes, and lake side beaches to explore.

I recommend spending three days in San Martin de los Andes but my life motto for travel in Argentina is “if you have more time you’ll never regret it.”

We only had two full days in San Martin de los Andes but I still recommend at least three.

On day 1 in SMA we explored the northern shores of Lago Lacar, stopping first at Playa Yuco and visiting its 5 beaches. This is, in my opinion, the most beautiful corner of SMA.

We got a late start at around 10 am and spent a few hours here. You could spend less if you don’t have toddlers who love to play at the lake. But if you want a beautiful spot for a relaxed picnic lunch, this is it.

Our second and final stop was Cascada Chachin, an easy 2.1 km hike through the forest to a beautiful waterfall. It’s pretty much all uphill on the way there and my toddler’s screams made it sound like we were forcing them to summit Mount Everest. Don’t listen to my 3 year old, it’s an easy trail (don’t worry about her, we carried her).

We don’t like to pack our day too much with the kids but if you want to hike, you could easily see La Islita today.

This is a popular hike from downtown but since you’re already driving this direction you can shave off most of the hike. You will see signs for the entrance as you drive along Ruta 48 towards Playa Yuco. Note that you can expect to pay an entry fee to the local Mapuche community.

For day two in SMA we headed to the southern shores of Lago Lacar, spending most of our day in Quila Quina.

To reach Quila Quina you’ll drive south on Ruta 40 from downtown SMA and turn off onto a dirt road where you’ll drive on a series of switchbacks down, up, and then back down again to the shore.

It’s a beautiful drive but expect to go slowly both for curves and sheep on the road (I love Patagonia).

You’ll need to pay the park entrance fee to the Mapuche community to enter Quila Quina. I’m not sure if they take credit card, we paid in cash. It’s always a good idea to always have some cash handy in Argentina, just in case.

Bring snacks or a picnic (I’m a broken record, I know). There is a restaurant here but it’s overpriced for low quality.

If you don’t want to drive, you can book this larger group catamaran excursion that goes to Quila Quina, Hua Hum, and Cascada Chachin.

We didn’t do very much else this day, going back into town to give our kids some well deserved time on the playground.

But what I would do after Quila Quina, if I were you, is book a tea time at the Casa de Te Arrayan.

This is the oldest tea house in Patagonia, housed in a cozy log cabin with epic views of Lago Lacar.

For your third day, I have options. So many options that you can see why I suggest more time is always better.

Take it easy and spend some time in downtown SMA. We didn’t have time this trip to enjoy the town itself and wished we had. Try the local chocolate shop, Mamusia. Go for a relaxing lunch with a lake view.

But if you want to move your body, hike the full trail to the Bandurrias viewpoint and La Islita, the most popular hike in San Martin de los Andes.

Or if you’d prefer to get out of town and see more of the region drive north to Lago Lolog, south to Lago y Villa Meliquina or book this full day excursion to see Huechulafquen Lake and Volcan Lanin (the most iconic peak near SMA).

Ruta 40: San Martin de los Andes to Villa La Angostura

When your time in SMA sadly comes to an end it is time to drive south along Argentina’s most scenic drive to spend a few days in Villa La Angostura.

This is the 7 Lakes Route, mentioned in abundance in this article. If you’re in a hurry then drive straight to from SMA to VLA. It will just take 2 hours.

But why would you rush through this?

Leave early to allow time for stops, read my guide to the 7 Lakes Route for everything you need to know.

On this particular trip we went to Villa y Lago Meliquina. We got some delicious empanadas to go at Bratali to eat along the road but if you want a sit down meal I recommend El Refugio.

Another favorite stop of mine is Lago Espejo Chico which feeds Rio Ruca Malen. This is my favorite lake for a picnic, either by the lake or the river. It’s stunning.

Villa Traful is a small village growing in popularity among Argentine tourists. This is a another good detour option for today with plenty of restaurants to choose from for lunch.

The road to Villa Traful is famously bumpy and long but is (thank the Lord) in process of being paved.

⚠ Car break-ins/Safety on the road: While this is a very safe part of the country, it is an unfortunate fact that car break ins are common in Bariloche and along the 7 Lakes Route. I don’t recommend doing hikes like Las Cascadas de Ñivinco on a travel day where you have all of your luggage in the trunk. Stop in places where you can be near your vehicle.

3 Days in Villa La Angostura

Once you reach the end of the 7 Lakes Route you have arrived at your destination: 3 days in Villa La Angostura.

Like SMA, I recommend at least three days in Villa La Angostura.

This trip I came with one mission and one mission only – to hike the trail in Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes. I’ve wanted to do it for our past few trips and something (like pneumonia) always got in the way. Not today, Satan.

There a few ways to see Los Arrayanes National Park – boat excursion, hike, or a combination of the two. We opted to hike there and take the boat back but doing the reverse is much more logical.

Taking the boat there means you don’t have to rush your hike to catch the boat. You can hike at your leisure.

But we had two small kids whose energy levels crash in the afternoon. Hiking later in the day was a risk we could not take.

The trail was stunning, with panoramic views of Lago Nahuel Huapi throughout the first kilometer. The rest of the hike was through the forest and it very much felt like a fairy tale. It’s no wonder that it is rumored that Walt Disney got the inspiration for Bambi in this forest.

Full disclosure and 100% only my opinion: I have to say that after doing the hike, I do not think that the boat out to Los Arrayanes is worth the money. It’s not a cheap ticket, especially if you purchase it round trip, and the portion of forest you see is really not that beautiful compared to what you see on the hike (or even the free and short Arrayan trail in Bariloche).

This took our entire day. We started the hike at 9 am and got back with the boat at around 3 that afternoon.

If it’s a sunny day you can relax on the beaches of Bahia Mansa and Bahia Brava once you get back. If you’re hungry, head into town for tea and cake at La Casita de Oma or Cafe Antibes.

For day two, let’s get back out on the water (it is the lake district, isn’t it?). Book a kayak excursion with Dalca Kayak, use code SOLSALUTE for 10%.

I went on a half day kayak excursion with Mariano. It’s very easy and you don’t need any prior experience. We kayaked to an isolated beach and enjoyed a picnic with fruit, cakes, and coffee or mate.

You can also book a full day excursion to get deeper into the lake and make more stops along the way.

Since I was back by lunch, we grabbed sandwiches at a bakery in town and went to Lago Correntoso just north of downtown.

It’s on of my favorite beaches being so close to town and protected from the wind. My kids can play here for hours throwing sticks and rocks into the lake, which is what they did.

If you want a more substantial meal than a sandwich, go to Las Bandurrias, open seasonally, for lunch with a view.

For your third day, drive back into the 7 Lakes Route.

I recommend hiking to the Cascada Ñivinco. I advised against doing this on your travel day with luggage in your car, now is your chance. This is an easy hike.

The Cascada Ñivinco trail takes around three hours total and is almost completely flat. Note that you do have to cross a creek at the start, unlacing your shoes and wading through barefoot. But if we did this in late winter and survived to tell the tale, then you can do it, too! It’s 100% worth it.

After your hike, relax by another lake. You have plenty to choose from.

If you don’t want to hike, you can drive out to Villa Traful for lunch. Its lake is beautiful. To see more scenery, drive the Circuito Grande. It will a long day but a beautiful one.

Or just stay in town, visit Puerto Manzano, the chocolate shops downtown, and walk the short trail along Rio Bonito.

What I’m saying here is, you have options. There is no shortage of things to do here. Choose your own adventure.

🗺 Need more help? Buy my Patagonia Map & Guide, I have pinned all of my favorite restaurants, trails, and hidden gems to it. You’ll find detailed itineraries for destinations like Bariloche and VLA. It’s an excellent compliment to this blog and can be downloaded for offline use to access while traveling.

Optional: 2-4 Days in Bariloche

You can include Bariloche into this itinerary or skip it completely.

If you skip it, don’t feel bad. You saw peak beauty in Villa La Angostura and San Martin de los Andes.

On our most recent trip I had a couple specific things I wanted to do in Bariloche so we spent a quick two nights here.

If you have time to spend here, see something uniquely Bariloche – like the Circuito Chico, hike to the Refugios (Bariloche’s hiking is excellent), see Colonia Suiza or Cerro Tronador.

Read more in my city guide to Bariloche.

“I don’t want to see Bariloche, I just want to be by the airport for my flight.” If this is you, then first do the actual calculations.

From Villa La Angostura it takes just over an hour to get to the Bariloche airport. Downtown Bariloche is 30 minutes and if you stay on the Circuito Chico it can take you almost an hour, depending on traffic.

Moral of the story? You’ll have to drive quite a bit no matter what. I wouldn’t change hotels just to be closer to the airport.

FAQ: North Patagonia Road trip

I have quite a bit to say and way too many alternatives and add-ons to this itinerary.

There are so many beautiful drives, hikes, and villages that you can use to tweak this itinerary.

Here are some questions answered and options to help you perfect your route.

Why visit both SMA and VLA?

Why do I recommend visiting both? Isn’t it just more of the same?

No, I find Villa La Angostura and San Martin de los Andes to be very different.

Villa La Angostura is located in a unique location, sunken into a basin surrounded by steep forests. It feels more like a tiny alpine village tucked away in the forest on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi.

That causes VLA to get more rain than its neighbors and it just feels so very green.

San Martin de los Andes is more exposed on the shores of Lago Lacar. It gets more sun and is often drier than its southern sister.

When we spent a month in VLA in winter I would often drive to SMA to get a sunny day (it was a particularly rainy winter that year in VLA).

Are there Alternatives to the 7 Lakes Route?

Yes, there are two more scenic drives. They aren’t as direct and have large portions of unpaved gravel, but the views are beautiful.

The 3 Routes from Villa La Angostura/Bariloche to San Martin de los Andes:

• Ruta de los 7 Lagos, Ruta 40: This is the best option. It is paved, accessible and easy for all cars. It is iconic and famous for being one of Argentina’s most beautiful scenic drives.
• Circuito Grande: This route is interesting if you have a whole day to dedicate to it. You’ll drive along the Rio Limay seeing the steppe before looping back towards Ruta 40, passing through the village of Villa Traful on your way. This route is half paved and half gravel. Any car can drive it but you’ll have to go slow on the gravel. I would do this as a full day drive from Bariloche to VLA, not all the way up to SMA.
• Paso del Cordoba: This is for the intrepid traveler and also better if you have most of the day to dedicate to it. We decided to skip it because our rental car felt like it was one rock away from gutting the engine (a piece of metal was hanging off the bottom, held together by tape, not exactly confidence inducing). This route is completely inland, offering stunning mountain views. It is markedly beautiful in fall when the leaves of the lenga trees turn a flaming red. I would do this as a drive connecting Bariloche and SMA. Confirm road quality the day of your drive here (R063 is the route) and check with tourist information before departing.

Is there to see beyond this itinerary?

If you have more than a week-10 days and really want to dive deeper into northern Patagonia you could then go south of Bariloche to El Bolson, Esquel, Cholila, and Trevelin.

If you do this budget for at least a few days in El Bolson, more if you love hiking. And if you have more than a few days keep going south to Cholila or Trevelin to explore Los Alerces National Park and surroundings.

What to pack for Northern Patagonia?

Layers, when you’re packing for any destination in Patagonia you want to pack layers.

For shoes, I always pack my hiking boots when visiting in cooler months. Blundstone boots are also a great option all year. For warmer months I always bring my Teva sandals, they’re the best for being by the lakes or even short hikes.

Jeans are fine but definitely also pack hiking pants. They are practical, they dry quickly and can be re-worn multiple times and hold their shape. Even if you aren’t hiking, you’ll be glad you have a pair.

For tops, bring – you guessed it – layers. A thermal base layer is a good idea in winter. A light fleece is good all year because even in summer the nights can be chilly.

Visiting in summer? Along with the warmer layers pack some shorts, tank tops/t-shirts and a swim suit! If it’s warm enough you can go for a dip in the lakes!

And finally, sun protection. The sun in Patagonia is very strong, don’t underestimate it. Pack sunscreen (it is expensive in Argentina) and a hat. I live in this hat all summer – both when I travel or just hang out in the yard at home.

👕Laundry: Don’t worry about packing for every single day if you have a long trip. Laundry facilities are common in Argentina (you drop it off, it is not self wash). For 5-10 dollars you’ll have clean clothes within hours. Search Google Maps for “lavanderia.”