Quebrada de las Conchas: The Most Beautiful Drive in Salta, Argentina

Salta is one of the most beautiful places in Argentina, earning itself the nickname “Salta La Linda.”

Salta the Beautiful.

All of this natural beauty means one thing only – road trip. A road trip in Salta means one scenic drive after another and the most beautiful and easily accessible of these natural wonders is the Quebrada de las Conchas.

Located on the paved Ruta 68 just outside of Cafayate en route to the city of Salta, this gorge’s natural beauty is understandably wildly popular.

No dirt road or 4×4 required, just hop in your tin can of a rental car and pull off the road for one jaw dropping natural formation after another.

This post is a complete guide to the Quebrada de las Conchas – all of the formations, hikes, empanadas and even llamas along the way.

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How to Visit the Quebrada de las Conchas

The Quebrada de las Conchas – which translates to the Shell’s Ravine or Gorge – is just outside of Cafayate, nearly three hours south of the city of Salta.

If visiting as a day trip from Salta, your day tour – like this one – will visit a winery or two in Cafayate along with the red earth formations of the quebrada.

However, I recommend basing yourself in Cafayate for at least a couple couple of days (we always go for 3-4). Enjoy the wineries in Cafayate, the beautiful town, and enjoy the proximity to the quebrada.

Rent a car for a Salta road trip and while in Cafayate, use your freedom to go early in the morning or late in the evening for the best light, best temperatures, and fewer people because group tours from the city of Salta tend to arrive later in the morning.

Ruta 68 from Salta all the way to Cafayate is paved and easy to drive.

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For example, we went for a hike in La Yesera to Los Estratos at 7 am – it was the best decision.

And with late breakfasts in Argentina, you can probably get back to your hotel in time for the breakfast buffet after your morning excursion.

You can also bike the quebrada. Many hotels, like ours when we stayed in Villa Vicuña, have free bikes for you to use. You can also rent one downtown on the main square.

Take a bus from the main bus terminal and have them load your bike. Get off at the Garganta del Diablo and bike back to town.

The morning light is a gift for the early bird.

Quebrada de las Conchas Highlights

The Quebrada de las Conchas is a series of natural formations and photo ops.

The two largest formations – the Amphitheater and the Devil’s Throat – were formed by waterfalls slowly eroding the rock.

Other formations are rocks that have been worn by the wind into the shapes of familiar objects like an obelisk or a toad.

The following is a list of the landmarks to see along the way, starting in Cafayate and working your way north in the direction of Salta.

Los Medanos

Just off the road, only 6 kilometers outside of Cafayate are epic sand dunes. This isn’t technically part of the quebrada but it’s on the way and it would be a pity to miss them.

At the 6 KM marker on Ruta 68 you’ll see a small parking lot to your right (coming from Cafayate). You’ll see signs for the Medanos (sand dunes) but there is also a sign for a Difunta Correa shrine, that is the right parking lot.

Park here and walk along the path that opens up parallel to the road. In under 10 minutes you’ll see the sand dunes appear from behind the bush.

Scurry on up and explore. We were here for ages with the kids. Other families had brought their mate to enjoy from the top.

Los Castillos

At kilometer 19 you’ll see the imposing Castillos, massive red towers over the river below it, the river that slowly eroded these formations into existence.

If you wander down, follow the instructions of the signs that say not to cross the river. There is a constant concern of rockslides, in fact one of these towers did collapse in 2010. Aptly named the Titanic, cracks in the towers can lead to collapses.

If you can swing it, I highly recommend seeing this at sunset, as seen in the photo above.

You can enjoy a wonderful view from the highway, but I took that photo from the Castillos de Cafayate hotel. We stayed there on our second visit and the views are unbeatable, each room has a panoramic view of this formation.

Another way to appreciate this formation at sunset is to schedule a sunset experience at Piattelli if they’re still offering it. It’s not as close but it’s hard to beat sitting on their patio with a glass of wine to watch the sunset over the quebrada.

El Obelisco

Compared to the immense size of Los Castillos, this small “obelisk” is a little underwhelming for a roadside attraction.

But it’s here, it has a sign marking its existence and importance so stop and take a picture. Then quickly move on, there is far greater beauty awaiting you…

La Yesera

La Yesera – Hike to Los Estratos

In 2018 we arrived at La Yesera at 7 am to hike out to Los Estratos. We had the place to ourselves all morning and the light was spectacular. As an every day early bird, I’m biased but I stand by it – waking up before the sun will always serve you well in Argentina.

The hike takes 30 minutes each way and is completely flat, feeling more like a leisurely walk and easy for all skill levels.

If you miss the sign, keep an eye on the kilometer markers. La Yesera is at kilometer 28.

🥾Hike El Paso/La Yesera: There is a much longer hike, a loop that will take you much deeper into La Quebrada. I know readers who have done it on their own but I’d be nervous about losing the trail. If I go on future trips I would go with a guide (we couldn’t with two small kids and being sleep deprived, we knew our limits). Tourist information recommended this company, I would also check with Majo Viajes on the main square.

🦙La Tienda de la Yesera: Empanadas and Llamas: The small shop just before the Yesera trail (click here for Google Map pin) had a few llamas tied up (I know, it isn’t ideal but they seemed healthy, happy and cared for). The kids loved feeding them and we grabbed some empanadas and snacks to enjoy with the view.

El Sapo

El Sapo – The Toad

Another random rock worn by the wind into an odd shape, this time a toad.

It’s a little more warped from the other end so you do need to see it from the right angle to see the toad. I have more respect for this than the obelisk, it really does look like a toad.

My kids agreed (from the rolled down car windows because getting kids out of their car seats for every formation is just nonsense).

The Parrot’s Nest

Casa de los Loros – Parrot’s Nest

I found the parrot’s nest to be surprisingly interesting.

Parrots have made their homes in the niches in the rock (see above). If you sit for a minute you’ll see them come and go from their nests.

They feed on seeds and plants in the region, proving that even in a desert, where there’s a will to live, there’s always a way.

El Fraile

El Fraile – The Friar

Can you spot the friar perched on top of the small cliff in the center above?

I have to admit I had a hard time finding him at first. Pull over if you want to find him because flying by at 60 km/hour will make it hard to find Waldo in this maze of red stone.

Mirador Tres Cruces

Mirador Tres Cruces

The Mirador Tres Cruces is an absolutely must see view point.

There’s a small parking lot to pull over and there will be a couple vendors selling handicrafts, it’s impossible to miss.

There’s a small staircase carved into the rock to climb for an epic view of the Calchaqui Valley below.

I know it can get tiring parking and getting in and out of the car over and over (champagne problems we have, no?). But this is one you don’t want to miss.

El Anfiteatro – The Amphitheater

The final two formations (or first two if you’re coming from Salta) are the most impressive.

Once inside them, you’ll feel like you’re being enveloped by the cavernous rock towering overhead.

The amphitheater is very appropriately named with magnificent acoustics. There are usually musicians inside playing local folkloric music.

Bring a little cash to tip them because they understandably get annoyed if you let your children dance to their music then don’t tip (we didn’t have cash!).

On our first visit we were lucky to arrive at the same time as a massive tour bus. I have never said that before (and likely never will again).

However, this particular tour group was a large group of Argentine retirees. They formed a dance party, singing and dancing with the folklorico music in the amphitheater. It was such a memorable experience.

But I do have to say, this and the Garganta del Diablo would be far more enjoyable if you go before the crowds. These formations are always crowded, if you like peace and quiet… work for it, early bird.

A woman standing on a red rock formation in a canyon
The Devil’s Throat

Garganta del Diablo – The Devil’s Throat

Such a menacing name and they seem to love it Argentina. There’s a Devil’s Throat waterfall in Iguazu Falls and a Devil’s Throat waterfall hike in Tilcara in Jujuy

This particular Garganta del Diablo is the remains of a waterfall long gone dry.

This final formation (the first if coming from Salta) is smaller than the Anfiteatro but no less stunning. You’re allowed to climb up the rocks and explore deeper inside the canyon.

The sign says not to climb in sandals but I have twice and lived to tell the tale. The descent was clumsy.

🐷 Tortilla Tip: Don’t miss the woman outside selling tortilla rellena (with regional goat cheese) cooked fresh in the moment.

My delicious tortilla outside of the Devil’s Throat

Puente Morales – The bridge from Relatos Salvajes

If you haven’t seen Relatos Salvajes (Wild Tales) yet, then watch it immediately. You can stream it on Amazon here.

It’s one of the best Argentine movies I’ve ever seen. It’s made up of a collection of short films about situations where things get out of hand, very quickly.

One of the storylines was filmed right here in the Quebrada de las Conchas and at kilometer 61 you can pull off to the infamous bridge where they filmed their scene.

Obviously, we had to stop for a photoshoot pretending to be the characters beating each other up on the side of the highway in Salta.

Reenacting Relatos Salvajes

Hotels in the Quebrada de las Conchas

In 2021, we chose to stay in this hotel in the quebrada instead of in Cafayate.

It’s not ideal for everyone, but if you have a rental car to get around and want these stunning views, we really enjoyed it.

It was about a 15 minute drive to get into downtown Cafayate, so it wasn’t as comfortable as when we stayed at Villa Vicuna downtown. Downtown we could be in a winery within 5 minutes on foot.

But staying at Castillos de Cafayate also had it’s benefits. Namely, the view. Our room had a huge window with a view of the Castillos formation. Sunset and sunrise was a spectacle each day.

Secondly, our room was large with a living area that made staying there with our toddler more comfortable. The pool is also wonderful if going in the hot summer months.

Read More About Argentina’s Northwest:

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6 thoughts on “Quebrada de las Conchas: The Most Beautiful Drive in Salta, Argentina”

  1. Wow, these photos are spectacular! I wish I had more time to spend in South America to explore Argentina and Chile that just means that I will have to plan another trip. This is definitely something that I want to see.

  2. Thanks so much! yeah, there’s so much to see in this corner of the world that it’s hard to get it all in. I hope you can plan a return trip!

  3. This was possibly the best road trip of my life!
    All I wanted was more time to explore everything.
    And so few tourist, the region is really an insider’s tip.

    Thank you very much for your guide, it helped us a lot with the planning!!

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