Los Chulengos, Mendoza: An Estancia in the Andes

On a peak in the Andes, while looking at her estate laid out below us, Ana Palma and I chatted horseback about her family history.

This land has been part of her family since the 1860’s. This is a level of connection to land that I can only dream about having moved from country to country since I left my own family home at just 24.

It was here with her family helped General San Martin gather 800 horses for his infamous crossing of the Andes that freed Chile.

It seems beyond understanding that such a place is available for tourism and I felt lucky to be there, riding horseback with the Palmas through the foothills of the Andes Mountains.

Los Chulengos is run and operated the Palma family, our hosts for our stay were Ana and Juani. And while estancias may seem a dime a dozen in Argentina, what Los Chulengos offers is one of a kind.

Throughout our two days here we felt like guests of the family, not guests in a hotel.

Disclosure: I was invited to stay at Los Chulengos, as always all opinions are 100% my own.

A Night in the Mountains at Los Chulengos, Mendoza

Los Chulengos is located in the mountains above the Uco Valley.

From Tupungato we drove into the mountains, leaving the pavement behind we made our way through La Carrera, a name that dates back to the Jesuits’ arrival to this land in 1632.

Juan was waiting for us at the road, where we left our low to the ground sedan and tumbled into his truck to traverse the 3 kilometers over rocks and the occasional stream to reach the ranch.

The guest house has three bedrooms (all with en suite bathrooms) and when arrived there was a fire going in the living room, which was very welcome thanks to an unexpected rain shower that had arrived with us.

We warmed up with a coffee and a jig saw puzzle until lunch. And since I was dying to get outside and enjoy the property, once lunch was ready we ate outside, rain bedamned.

Luckily, the sun came out and I didn’t have to force anyone to join me and with the views outdoors, it was the wise choice.

While we’d been settling into the house, Juan has been at work at the parrilla preparing an asado for lunch and we all ate together. A stay at Los Chulengos is all inclusive (including four meals) so you won’t need to worry about a thing once you arrive.

We enjoyed sirloin cooked to perfection with a glass of wine and a view of the Andes. After lunch and a coffee, we prepared for a horseback ride across the property.

This was the absolute highlight of our trip. Our horses, Pajarito and Granizado, were very tame and easy to ride, even with our children riding in our laps.

Visiting in the spring meant we were able to see calves and foals running alongside their mothers. The fields and mountains were bathed in a sea of dandelions and at one point, 9 condors circled overhead.

We rode uphill to look down at the estate below us with the greater Andes peaks at our backs. It was here that I chatted with Ana about her family history.

It wasn’t until this moment that I realized I wasn’t just at another estancia or luxury hotel. To experience Los Chulengos is, of course, to experience all of what rural tourism in Argentina has to offer – gauchos, horses, asados, and the rustic luxury of the mountains. But beyond that, Los Chulengos is the Palma family opening their home of 250 years to the public and I felt lucky to be there.

After our ride, we were greeted with coffee, tea, and cake and relaxed until dinner.

Throughout our entire stay, we barely saw our four year old. He was in absolute paradise here in the mountains and played with Juan and Ana’s son.

At one point when I started to worry at how long it had been since I had seen him, I started to look for him. I found him helping to give a bottle to a small calf. Traveling with family? You’ll be challenged to find something more perfectly fit than an estancia for keeping kids entertained and happy.

Dinner was served in our cabin – trout with vegetables by the fire followed by homemade chocolate mousse.

Sleep was easy with just the sounds of the birds outside of our window. Breakfast was served on the lawn facing the mountains, the perfect way end the stay.

Reserve your stay at Los Chulengos: The Logistics

Thank you to Los Chulengos for inviting us to experience your property. As always, all opinions are 100% my own.

• Want to experience Los Chulengos for yourself? Visit their website for more information.
• Stay overnight – Rates are all inclusive including horseback rides, walks, and all four meals (in Argentina, the merienda/tea time is the fourth meal). Contact Los Chulengos to reserve.
• Visit for the day – You can visit Los Chulengos for the day with their Dia de Campo including horseback rides (and other activities according to your interests) and an asado lunch. Read more here.
• How long to stay? Two nights is ideal, allowing you one full day on the property.
• What to pack? When heading into the mountains, remember to pack layers. Weather here can be unpredictable and even though Mendoza forecasts 90 degrees and sunny, it could get chilly in the mountains. Pack a jacket, a sweater, boots or closed shoes, hat and sunscreen.

Keep Reading

Read more about Mendoza and estancias across Argentina:

• A Detailed Mendoza Travel Guide
• The Best Wineries & Wine Tours in Mendoza
• Where to stay in Mendoza
• The Best Estancias Near Buenos Aires
• Estancia Nibepo Aike: The Perfect Estancia near El Calafate