With the kids piled into the car we left Buenos Aires proper behind us on our way to relax in a Tudor style mansion in the Argentine countryside.
An English home may not be what comes to mind when you think of a rural Buenos Aires estancia, yet this is a historic home that days back to the 1920’s.
After a rough few months our family needed an escape into the countryside and Estancia Villa Maria delivered.
We ate, we relaxed, we rode horses.
It was perfection.
My toddler even requested that we stay here forever and not go back to that other house (a.k.a. home).
Keep reading to learn a bit more about this historic property on the southern edge of Buenos Aires.
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Discloser: We were hosted on our stay at Estancia Villa Maria. I am grateful for our stay and as always, all opinions are 100% my own.
In this post:
Checking In at Estancia Villa Maria
The home itself, which covers 3,000 square meters and houses 30 bedrooms, was built between 1923-1927, designed by Argentine architect Alejandro Bustillo.
In the 1990’s, the Anchorena family decided to pivot to tourism, opening the hotel and estancia to the public as a luxury hotel and polo club.
Today, the estate itself is being divided into a gated community. Nevertheless, the neighborhood’s houses feel miles away when you’re on the hotel’s property surrounded by over 300 species of local trees and flora.
We pulled up the drive to check in and found out the room originally set aside for us was still occupied by last night’s guests (their children had been up sick all night, a fate we can empathize with).
They hoped our new room would meet our expectations.
We walked up the large, winding stone staircase and weaved through the upstairs hall passed sitting areas on the outdoor upstairs balcony (a relaxing space I could only dream about enjoying with a book and a glass of wine now that I have two toddlers to keep me busy).
Our new room was actually a three bedroom, two bathroom suite. You could say we were happy with it.
With a long hall connected cozy bedrooms and bathrooms featuring claw footed tubs, the room was perfection.
I admit I later resented having to go to dinner that night, as the space was too difficult to leave (I am not being hyperbolic).
Each room in Villa Maria is different and not all are as large as the room we were blessed with, but I can ensure that you will be comfortable with any room you book here.
There are 11 rooms in the main house and 5 in the neighboring Casa Francesa.
What to do at Estancia Villa Maria
We spent one night at Villa Maria, arriving for check in at around noon.
The timing was perfect for us, giving us time to settle into the room and explore the grounds a little bit before lunch.
You can choose to come for lunch and the day or stay overnight. I obviously recommend staying overnight if you have the budget for it. That said, there were plenty of day visitors there while we were there as well.
The day’s schedule is unstructured and you can use your time however you’d like.
If you’re going in the summer, there is a pool to relax by in the afternoon.
Horseback rides depart at set time frames during a couple of hours in the morning and again in the afternoon after lunch. Depending on the season there may be performances of folkloric dance or polo, so keep an eye on the schedule or ask in advance.
We spent our free time mostly by the playground (toddlers) until lunch, which takes place in the indoor dining room overlooking the lawn.
What was lunch?
Asado, of course.
The photos are meat heavy but I promise (despite not being deemed worthy of the photo) we were also served vegetables and a salad.
Each meal is a coursed event and the asado was no different.
First, we were brought a platter of empanadas. The meat empanadas were very flavorful and I was not sad to scoop up the ones my picky toddlers left behind.
The main course was brought out on a parrilla, a tiny little grill to keep the meat warm.
It included a variety of cuts including chorizo, morcilla (blood sausage), ribs, steak, and other interesting bits. We were offered seconds but couldn’t even finish our first serving. Come hungry!
Dessert came next: flan with dulce de leche and cream and chocolate ice cream for the little ones.
Horseback rides run for a set time frame in the morning and in the afternoon, so after lunch we went straight to the corrals at the back of the lawn to avoid a queue and this was a smart move.
You can choose to ride horseback or in the horse drawn carriage. We each tossed a kid in front of our lap and chose to ride horses but if you’d prefer a more hands-off approach, the carriage is a great choice.
We went on a short loop through the woods surrounding the home, you definitely don’t need any experience to ride horses here as they tamely follow behind the gaucho leading them.
After the horseback ride I don’t really know where time went. We relaxed in the room a bit until tea time (more food) and just enjoyed the space.
And yes, more food. Coming downstairs for tea time we were met with a three-tiered tray of cakes and sandwiches.
We used tea time as our kid’s early dinner time and then put them to bed upstairs before our dinner (more food).
When I say I did NOT want to go downstairs after the rush of kid bed time and the temptation of a movie in our four poster king bed and down duvet…
It was a struggle, but another three coursed meal awaited us in the neogothic dining room downstairs.
Luckily, our bedroom was just above the dining room which allowed our baby monitor’s signal to reach us and we could eat in peace.
Our day was a real dream and we slept like kings in their soft heavenly beds.
Breakfast was another huge to-do with everything from eggs and bacon to medialunas, fresh fruit, coffee, and more.
Things to do in Estancia Villa Maria
We mostly ate and relaxed with the kids but here is how to fill out your time at Estancia Villa Maria.
All room rates are full board, including breakfast, lunch & dinner and all activities on the property:
- Bring a swimsuit and a book, relax by the pool!
- Horseback rides and horse drawn carriage rides across the property. There are two two-hour windows (in the morning and in the afternoon) when horses are available to ride.
- Game rooms: the stables have been remodeled into a games room complete with ping pong tables and there is a billiard room with board games in the main house.
- Play golf, there is an 18-hole course on the property considered one of the best courses in Buenos Aires
- Play tennis on the property’s clay courts
- Ride bikes around the property
Pros & Cons of Estancia Villa Maria
The good, the bad, and the ugly, what are the ups and downs of planning a visit to Estancia Villa Maria in your Argentina itinerary?
THE PROS:
- This is a luxury property and they will spoil you. It’s a great end to an otherwise hectic itinerary to cap your trip off in a relaxed way.
- This is a romantic property and ideal for couples (Michael Bublé even got married here so you know it delivers!).
- Being on the south of Buenos Aires it is close to Ezeiza International Airport. You can make your way to your flight home without stressing about city traffic.
- As a full board stay (activities and food both), you can just relax and enjoy yourself.
THE CONS
- It isn’t a traditional property in the rural gaucho sense, it feels more polished and luxurious. This isn’t necessarily a con at all (it’s their strength) but if you’re looking for a place to see rugged gauchos, this isn’t that kind of estancia.
- On the drive out, you’re never truly out of the city. The suburbs extend basically until you’re at Villa Maria. Once you’re on the property you’d never know the city is so close and it is very peaceful, but if you’re wanting to get out deep into the countryside you might need to consider another of these estancias near Buenos Aires.
Reserve your stay at Estancia Villa Maria
Thanks to Estancia Villa Maria for hosting us on our visit, as always, opinions are my own.
Ready to escape to Villa Maria?
Here are some important links to book your day trip or overnight stay:
- Official website to book directly with the property (day visits and hotel)
- Check prices and availability via booking.com
- Day visit with polo lessons
Read More about Rural Buenos Aires
- The Best Estancias in Buenos Aires
- The Best Buenos Aires Day Trips
- Wineries near Buenos Aires
- La Bandada: A Luxury Estancia in San Miguel del Monte
- La Candelaria: An Estancia with a French Castle
- San Antonio de Areco: Buenos Aires’ Gaucho Paradise
Argentina Travel Resources
- TRAVEL INSURANCE | It is always a good idea to travel insured. It protects you in so many cases, like lost luggage and trip cancellations, medical emergencies and evacuations. It’s very affordable with the potential to save you thousands in the case of an emergency. I recommend SafetyWing.
- PHONE PLAN | These days, traveling with data is essential. Especially in Argentina where everything is managed on Instagram and WhatsApp. I recommend this E-SIM card. It’s hassle-free and affordable, for more read how to get an Argentina sim card.
- ACCOMMODATION IN ARGENTINA | booking.com is the most common hotel site used in Argentina and it’s where you’ll find the most options.
- RENTAL CARS | I love to travel Argentina via road trip, I’ve always used rentalcars.com, now they are operating under the umbrella of Booking.com’s car rental system.
- BUS TICKETS | Check Busbud for long distance bus routes and tickets.
- VPN | If you’ll be using a public WiFi connection and want to secure your data, I highly recommend using a VPN, I personally use and have had a good experience with ExpressVPN. I also use it to access Hulu and American Netflix from Argentina.
- FLIGHTS | Always check Google Flights and Skyscanner for flights to and within Argentina. Aerolineas Argentina is the local airline with the most routes. FlyBondi and Jetsmart are two budget airlines with dirt-cheap prices (but expect to pay for every add-on like luggage).
- BOOK A CONSULTATION | I offer one-on-one travel consultations to help you plan your trip to Argentina. Pick my brain to get a local’s insight. Click here for more information.