Some neighborhoods in Buenos Aires are behemoths, like Palermo and Belgrano, covering vast swaths of the city. Then there are barrios so tiny that most locals don’t even realize that they’re there.
Coghlan is exactly one of these little neighborhoods.
I spent 8 years living here and when I told my local friends we were moving to Coghlan most responded with a look of confusion and a mouthful of marbles… “Cogh…que?”
It may be small but it is mighty, quaint Coghlan is filled with things to do!
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Coghlan, Buenos Aires: A Neighborhood Guide
Coghlan is just north of Belgrano, bordering the posh Belgrano R neighborhood. Its other neighbors are Villa Urquiza, Saavedra, and Núñez.
It’s made up of roughly 10 square blocks and is mainly residential.
If you’re wondering where to live in Buenos Aires, Coghlan is a wonderful option.
Enjoy tree-lined cobblestoned streets and a much quieter, peaceful vibe than in the busy centro.
The train can have you in Palermo within 5 minutes and Retiro in 20.
But you don’t need to move here to enjoy it.
There are plenty of things to do in Coghlan to enjoy a day in Buenos Aires off the beaten path.
Things to do in Coghlan, Argentina
Here are my favorite things to do in one of my favorite neighborhoods in Buenos Aires.
The people that live in Coghlan are passionate about their neighborhood, eager to protect its historic charm.
It’s easy to see why they love it, and after a day of exploring it, I hope you do as well.
1. Estación Coghlan
You can’t visit Coghlan without paying a visit to its reason for existence, the train station of the same name.
In 1887 the president commissioned a train to connect Belgrano to Tigre.
Estación Coghlan was inaugurated four years later, beginning the development of what would be the neighborhood we see today.
Although the countryside gave way to cobblestone and the landscape changed dramatically over the past century, the station itself remains very much the same.
The residents of Coghlan fight hard to maintain the historical integrity of the station and its iconic bridge. Check it out and enjoy the surrounding park.
There is a small coffee shop selling pastries, coffee, and fresh flowers at the foot of the stairs. Get a cafe con leche and a medialuna (or 3) and relax at the picnic tables under the canopy of trees.
There are two playgrounds for the little ones and a library housed in the station’s main building. If you speak Spanish, introduce yourself to the caretaker of the library. She’s very friendly and knows a lot of the station’s history.
2. Lunch at Vicente & Ice Cream at Lucca
One of my most favorite intersections in the entire city is the corner of Rivera & Naon.
Not only do the cobblestones and historic homes make a beautiful view, but it is also home to one of the neighborhood’s best restaurants: Vicente.
Get a table outside and order one of their specialty fresh pasta. Their lomito dishes are also a bit hit with my husband and father.
Afterward, get artisanal ice cream at Lucca across the street. They always have unique flavors you won’t find anywhere else.
3. Street Art
It may feel unexpected on these sleepy streets but Coghlan is actually home to some of the best street art in Buenos Aires.
Most of the best murals are found within a few blocks from each other, see the Google map at the end of the post for the locations.
4. Centro Ana Frank Argentina
Located at Superi 2647, you can visit this tribute to Anne Frank and the impact she had on the world at the Centro Ana Frank Argentina.
The ground floor features photos and different editions of Anne’s diary. In the second story, the museum has created a complete replica of the annex that hid Anna and her family.
For information on opening hours and tours, visit the official site.
5. Historic Homes
Coghlan was named after an Irishman, Juan Coghlan, that worked for the railroad. Many Irish and English families settled here and many of the historic homes look very English.
My favorites can be found on Estomba between Roosevelt and the train tracks before Monroe Avenue. But if you keep your eyes open you’ll see a lot of beautiful homes tucked away thanks to Coghlan’s protected historic status.
6. Philosophical Pasajes
Coghlan’s two tiny pasajes (alleyways) are named after the great philosophers: Plutarco and Socrates.
Beautiful facades, street art, and flowers pouring over fences add to their charm. Visit Plutarco, a health food shop on the pasaje of the same name.
Plutarco makes delicious granola and baked goods and sells organic fruit and veg and ecological alternatives like bamboo toothbrushes and more in a corner building decorated in the quirkiest of murals, cactus, and statues on the roof.
7. Hospital Pirovano
While I hope you don’t find yourself in need of the hospital, it’s still worth looking at from the outside if you’re in the area.
The historic structures, including a chapel, are best seen from Calle Roque Perez.
There are murals decorating the walls on all three streets (excluding Avenida Monroe and its front facade).
8. The Chimney
From 1880 to 1920 the city constructed 80 brick chimneys throughout the city to serve as ventilation to the city’s sewage system (lovely).
One of them can still be seen today at Washington 2944 in Coghlan. It is one of the most visible.
Now referred to as the Obelisco of Coghlan, you can view it from the street.
9. Villa Roccatagliata
Villa Roccatagliata is one of the few remaining examples of the original homes in the city (as they are routinely demolished in favor of poor quality, eyesore towers filled with single room studio apartments).
The villa was build in 1900 when Coghlan was a brand new neighborhood.
The style is criolla, a blend of Spanish traditionalist style and modern Italian influences.
Like many stunning properties in Buenos Aires the villa was abandoned. Its garden became a service station and the interior a supermarket. Thankfully, they didn’t do any permanent damage to the structure.
Currently, to the frustration of many, two apartment towers are being built on top of the historic villa. Contractors have wine legal battles on the argument that the building only is protected, not the grounds. Therefore the building will rest below two monstrous towers and serve as common spaces for the residents.
See what remains of this piece of architectural history at the corner of Balbin and Roosevelt.
10. Bar La Union
I’m a sucker for the historically protected Bares Notables of Buenos Aires. While La Union isn’t on the official list of Notable Bars, it is recognized for its historical importance.
It maintains the traditional esthetic of the neighborhood and is in a very residential area on the corner of Naon and Congreso.
The building has been for sale for quite some time so it’s possible that Bar La Union’s days are numbered. Stop by for a cafe con leche while you still can.
I hope you enjoy your time in Coghlan. It’s small but it is peaceful and beautiful.
If you’re looking for s quiet place to stay or live in Buenos Aires I cannot recommend it enough.
if you have any questions at all ask away in the comments and I’ll get back to you!