How to Visit Estancia Harberton in Tierra del Fuego

Estancia Harberton, hugging the shore of a quiet bay on the Beagle Channel, is the oldest estancia in Tierra Del Fuego.

Thomas Bridges was the first successful Anglican missionary in Tierra Del Fuego in 1871. With his young family they were among the first Europeans to permanently live here.

He arrived to these shores already speaking the Yaghan language that he had learned as a child at play with the children of the indigenous people. His father had previously attempted to found a mission in Tierra Del Fuego but years later it was Thomas who succeeded.

In 1886, when he retired from his post he founded Estancia Harberton, named after his wife’s home in Devon, England.

Now Harberton is managed by his fourth-great grandson, Tommy Goodall and his daughter Abby Goodall.

Today travelers can visit Estancia Harberton and learn about this founding family’s history.

This post is a complete guide to visiting Estancia Harberton, whether it be as a day trip or as the destination itself.

How to Visit Estancia Harberton

Estancia Harberton is an hour and 40 minute drive from Ushuaia. It’s very possible to visit for the day.

But if you’re looking to get away from the crowds or prefer to travel slowly (this describes me) then you will appreciate staying overnight. We stayed for two nights and I would recommend that as the minimum.

To reach Estancia Harberton you’ll take Ruta Nacional 3, eventually turning right onto the provincial route J.

The roads are all well maintained and easy to drive roads for all vehicles.

Day Trip to Estancia Harberton

If you want to book an organized excursion to Harberton, then book this one.

Isla Martillo is home to Ushuaia’s resident Magellanic and Gentoo penguin colony. This island is part of Estancia Harberton but the tour to see the penguins is instead by a third party, the only operator authorized to operate tours to the island.

The tour brings 40 people to the estancia and splits into two groups. One group of 20 will go to the penguin colony while the other tours Harberton’s Museo Acatushun, a museum dedicated to marine wildlife. Later, the groups switch places.

However, this tour only involves a brief interaction with Harberton, focusing mostly on the penguins as the star of the day.

Visit on your own if you have a rental car (check rates here) or hire a taxi (likely more costly than the rental car).

• Book lunch or tea at Restaurant y Casa de Té Acawaia, open from 12 pm to 5 pm, lunch served until 3 pm. Reserve in advance for lunch. Enjoy a regional meal or try cakes made from the family’s recipes with beautiful views of the bay and the property below.
• History tour of the property: 1 pm, 3 pm and 5:15 pm
• Tour of Museo Acatushun: 2:15 pm, 4:30 pm, and 6:45 pm
• CLOSED ON TUESDAYS – It is important to remember that Harberton (even the museum) is closed on Tuesdays.

The above tours are scheduled to allow one to lead directly into another. For example, you can start with a 1 pm tour of the property, do a 2:15 pm tour of Museo Acatushun then head over to the tea house for a warm cup of coffee and slice of cake before ending your day.

Another fun itinerary would be to start your day in Puerto Almanza for lunch. This local fishing village is the best place to try centolla (king crab). After lunch you can make the 3 pm tour of the property.

Two Nights at Estancia Harberton

We spent two nights here and I can’t recommend it enough.

Staying on the farm will give you the time you need to really see everything Harberton has to offer. And we were busy for our entire stay so I would say that two nights is the minimum, merely a jumping off point.

With more time you can explore more trails and activities in this far flung corner of Tierra Del Fuego.

Estancia Harberton offers a few different programs for their Bed & Breakfast, compare the options here.

Personally, I recommend booking a package that includes all your meals so you don’t need to worry about bringing food with you or having to cook.

But if not, you can always order a meal to go from the restaurant or cook. The cabins have a small kitchen with all the basics you’ll need for cooking.

We arrived late on our check in day – at 6 pm. Taking full advantage of the extended hours of daylight this far south we immediately took off on a short hike around the peninsula with one of the guides.

Our dinner, like the rest of our meals, was a filling three course meal with local ingredients like sea bass or baked chicken. Breakfast was a generous buffet with eggs, yogurts, fruit and a variety of pastries and cakes.

We only had one full day which we jam packed with activities. This is why I would really recommend at least three nights.

After breakfast (all meals were served in the tea house), we went on a self-guided hike to some beaver dams on the property. We had the walk all to ourselves, even passing the remains of a settlement of the original Yaghan inhabitants that left their mark on the landscape all across the coastline.

We made it back just in time to lunch before touring the Acatushun Museum and the bone house. Current owner Tommy Goodall’s wife, Natalie, founded this museum.

We went straight from the museum to the tour of the historic center of the property, getting a history lesson of the farm and the family that founded it. The tour takes you into the forest to see their family cemetery and re-constructions of Yaghan dwellings.

Straight after the tour we found ourselves back in the tea house for a merienda of warm coffee, hot chocolate, and cakes to fuel us up for one last adventure – penguins.

We went to our cabin and bundled up with all of our layers. Isla Martillo is far colder and more exposed than the farm, but we were prepared.

The tour picked up a van full of travelers that had come from Ushuaia then crossed the bay to Harberton’s pier to pick us up. Being on the last outing of the day we were able to see the colony at its fullest. Penguins that had spent the day fishing in the water were back to their nests for the night.

We saw hundreds and hundreds all over the island with our guide. One lazy sea lion slept on the beach, another was swimming in the waves.

When we pulled back to the dock, I was very grateful to be just steps away from a warm dinner while the rest of the group piled back into the van for a nearly two hour drive back to Ushuaia.

We ate a hearty dinner and rested in our cabin, warmed by the fire (that I dutifully restocked with wood twice in the night).

Before leaving we had a chat with Abby and I bought Lucas Bridge’s book – The Uttermost Part of the Earth. Lucas was Thomas Bridges’ second son and wrote a hugely informative book detailing his family’s history on the islands here.

I’m slowly making my way through it, if you’re interested in history then you can pick it up here (or wait and buy it right at the source). Lovers of James Michener will dig right in (and don’t worry, it’s an easier read than Michener’s tomes).

Reserve Your Visit to Estancia Harberton

Thanks to Estancia Harberton for inviting me to experience their home. Opinions, as always, expressed in this review are 100% my own.

If you would like to plan your stay at Harberton, reference the following links and information:

• Day Trip to the museum and penguin rookery
• Tours and restaurant information to visit on your own
• Bed & Breakfast Packages – I recommend 2-3 nights minimum
• The season here runs from mid-October through March, the estancia and all of its facilities are closed on Tuesdays
• Because of the topography, Harberton is not considered to be suitable for people with reduced mobility.

Read More about Tierra Del Fuego

• Things to do in Ushuaia, A Guide to the End of the World
• A Guide to Centolla in Ushuaia & Puerto Almanza – A fishing village a stone’s throw from Harberton
• Las Loicas: An Epic Estancia in Tierra del Fuego
• Trekking Ushuaia: A Guide to Hiking in Ushuaia
• Hiking Laguna Turquesa, Ushuaia
• Trekking Laguna Esmeralda: Ushuaia’s Most Popular Hike
• Tierra del Fuego National Park: A Complete Guide